When we lived in Milan, I was eager to visit Switzerland. Due to its high cost, we only managed a quick day trip, taking the famous Bernina Express. It was stunning, but after experiencing just a taste of Switzerland, there are a few things I would do differently. If you’re a first-time visitor planning to ride the Bernina Express, here are my recommendations for making the most of this scenic train ride through the Swiss Alps.
The History of the Bernina Express
The Bernina Express began operations in 1910, connecting Tirano, Italy, with Chur, Switzerland. Its route traverses some of the most dramatic landscapes in the Alps, passing through 55 tunnels and crossing 196 bridges. The train was built to meet the needs of both the Swiss and Italian populations living in the region. As of 2008, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the most breathtaking journeys in the world.
The Bernina Express is famous for its high-altitude tracks, which cross the Bernina Range and offer panoramic views of glaciers and lakes. It’s often considered one of the best ways to explore the Swiss Alps, especially in winter when the snow-covered landscape is transformed.
Why the Bernina Express Is So Popular
The Bernina Express has earned a reputation as one of the most scenic and unique train rides in the world. It offers tourists a chance to experience the Swiss Alps without needing to hike or drive through difficult terrain. The route passes through both Swiss and Italian territories, allowing passengers to witness diverse landscapes, from rugged mountains and glaciers to charming alpine villages. The train’s appeal lies not just in its views, but also in its impressive engineering. The Bernina Line is a mountain railway that climbs from Tirano (429 meters) to Ospizio Bernina (2,253 meters), making it one of the highest railway lines in Europe.
Things Tourists Should Know Before Riding the Bernina Express
- Booking in Advance: Due to its popularity, especially in the winter season, it’s advisable to book your tickets in advance to secure a seat, especially if you want to travel on specific dates or during peak times.
- Winter Weather: The Bernina Express route can experience heavy snowfall in winter, which makes for a beautiful but sometimes unpredictable journey. Be prepared for delays due to snowstorms and check the weather forecast before your trip.
- Dress Warmly: Even if you’re traveling in the train, the Swiss Alps can be freezing in winter. Dress warmly and bring extra layers, especially if you plan to stop and take photos at any of the scenic viewpoints.
- Photography: The Bernina Express offers some of the most incredible views in the world, so be sure to have your camera ready. If you’re planning to take photos from both sides of the train, it’s a good idea to book seats on either side.
Our Trip on the Bernina Express
We booked our tour through an Italian travel company, which picked us up by bus in Milan and drove us to St. Moritz, Switzerland. Our original itinerary changed a few times due to heavy traffic and an impending snowstorm. After spending a couple of hours exploring St. Moritz, we took the bus to a quiet spa where we could use the saunas or swim in a “somewhat” heated outdoor pool.
Later, we drove to a small hotel near Tirano, Italy, where we spent the night (all included in the tour). The next day, after some debate among our group, we decided to visit Bormio, Italy before catching the Bernina Express in the afternoon. Some group members wanted to see the Christmas markets there, but unfortunately, they were closed. After a brief visit to Bormio, we hurriedly left to beat traffic. We didn’t beat traffic though. And it took several hours to get from Bormio to Tirano. We barely made it in time for our train.
The train ride from Tirano to St. Moritz was incredible—just over two hours through snow-covered peaks and valleys. We arrived in St. Moritz in the evening, had a brief hour to buy some delicious swiss chocolates, and then boarded the bus back to Milan. It was a budget-friendly trip, but I did feel a bit rushed. I’m glad I took the ride, though, and I got some beautiful photos. That said, I wish we had spent more time in Switzerland and not booked the whole tour package.
My new favorite chocolate after this trip is Läderach here’s bit on that:
Läderach Chocolate: A Swiss Luxury
Läderach is renowned for its premium Swiss chocolate. Founded in 1962 by Franz Läderach in the small town of Bilten, Switzerland, the brand quickly gained a reputation for crafting chocolates from the finest ingredients. What sets Läderach apart is its commitment to handcrafting each piece, often with a focus on natural flavors and artisanal techniques. Their fresh pralines and signature FrischSchoggi (a thin, crunchy slab of chocolate studded with fruits, nuts, and other delicious fillings) have become iconic in the chocolate world. The company remains family-owned and has expanded globally, with stores in cities like Zurich, Geneva, New York, and Dubai, making it accessible to chocolate lovers around the world. I knew it was going to be pricey when I walked into the store but the sales people were so lovely. After sampling a bite, I was sold!
Recommendations for Taking the Bernina Express
Milan to Tirano: Starting from Milan, there are several train options operated by Trenitalia and Trenord that take you to Tirano, Italy. The journey takes about 2.5–3 hours. If you plan to spend the night in Tirano, you’ll have a full day to explore and can use your one-day ticket for the Bernina Express the next day.
Booking: I recommend purchasing a one-way ticket and spending the night in Chur. From there, you can use another one-way ticket to return to Tirano the next day. This will allow you to enjoy both St. Moritz and Chur without feeling rushed. For an even better experience, consider booking seats on both sides of the train to enjoy the panoramic views from either direction.
The train from Tirano to St. Moritz takes about 2 hours and 20 minutes, while the route from St. Moritz to Chur is about 4 hours and 20 minutes.
What You’ll See on Your Ride
from Tirano to St. Moritz
- Piz Bernina (4,049 meters): The highest peak in the Bernina Alps.
- Morteratsch Glacier: One of the largest glaciers on the route, its vast icy expanse is visible from the train.
- Palü Glacier: A stunning glacier near Alp Grüm, known for its striking blue tones and dramatic ice formations.
- Poschiavo: A adorable Swiss town at the foot of the Bernina Alps, with Italian architecture.
- Gucci Store at the Roseg Glacier: A luxury pop-up store offering exclusive alpine fashion, it stands alone along the snowy landscape.
From St. Moritz to Chur
- Bernina Massif: a stunning mountain range of rugged peaks and alpine landscapes.
- Morteratsch Glacier: one of the largest in the region.
- Lago Bianco: A crystal-clear alpine lake nestled at a high altitude, reflecting the surrounding snow-capped peaks.
- Lago di Poschiavo: Another picturesque lake visible from the train, set against the backdrop of the rolling hills and mountains.
- Quaint Villages: Picturesque villages like Poschiavo and Samedan, where you can admire traditional Swiss alpine architecture and culture.
I hope these tips help you plan your winter trip in Switzerland with the Bernina Express! Whether you’re visiting for the first time or coming back for another adventure, this scenic train ride should definitely be on your bucket list.
For more of our adventures and recommendations, check out these other posts: