Most people have heard of Lake Como—usually thanks to celebrities like George Clooney— but understanding the area can be a bit confusing at first. “Lake Como” means the actual lake and the area around it, which includes a bunch of little towns. Some of the more popular Como destinations include: the actual town of Como, situated at one of the southern tips of the upside-down Y shape of the lake. Further north, where the arms of the Y meet, lie the iconic towns of Bellagio, Menaggio, and Varenna, known for their elegant villas, cobblestone lanes, and boutique shops—beautiful, though often expensive. So where should you go in Lake Como? How do you get around? And what else do you need to know before visiting Lake Como?
I’ve visited Lake Como twice. The first trip was during our time living in Milan. Milan is conveniently close—just under an hour by train. During the hectic summer peak, we toured well-known spots like Varenna, Bellagio, and Menaggio, but we left feeling like it wasn’t worth the hassle—more on that later. The second time though? Total game-changer. I returned to Milan and a friend kindly drove us up in January. The lake was quiet, cool, and just as stunning. We explored the town of Como and drove the nearby scenic cliffs of the lake. Here’s a brief comparison of my two trips to Lake Como—one went wrong, one went right —so you can learn from my experience and make the most of your visit.
First Time at Lake Como: Day Trip from Milan to Varenna with the Train
The first time we visited Lake Como, we took the train from Milan to Varenna, then hopped on ferries to Bellagio and Menaggio. The ferries are very easy to navigate but you will have to pay attention to the ferry schedule as they run at different frequencies depending on the season. We skipped Como Town completely that trip and just focused on the lake.
Varenna was my first real glimpse of Lake Como, and it felt like a dream—romantic, peaceful, and postcard-perfect. Varenna was love at first sight, except for a grumpy café owner who yelled at me for using the restroom (while we were waiting for a table!). Not great customer service, but I got my cappuccino and moved on.
After wandering Varenna, we met up with friends and headed to Bellagio. By then it was midday, brutally hot, and packed with tourists. We got overwhelmed pretty quickly, so we found a quieter alley, grabbed drinks and gelato, and waited for the next ferry.
Menaggio saved the day. Spacious, breezy, much more chill. We had lunch, walked the promenade, found a few swim spots, then ferried back to Varenna for the train home—just in time for dinner in Milan. At the end of this trip I would agree that Lake Como is beautiful. But I also very much had the feeling: Been there, done that!
Como By Car, My Second Visit
When I mentioned to a friend that I’d been to Varenna, Bellagio, and Menaggio, she laughed and said, “That’s not real Como!” She was right. I’m so glad I gave it a second chance. Having a car changed everything. I finally got to see the real Como. But if I’m being honest, what really made it great was going in the off-season. No crowds, no stress—just the lake at its best.
Como is the largest town on the lake, and it’s utterly charming—filled with stunning architecture, a striking cathedral, bustling shopping streets, and plenty of inviting cafés and restaurants. We started the day by driving past the town to a few scenic viewpoints for photos, then circled back into Como for lunch and a walk along the lakeside promenade. The beauty and atmosphere of the town brought back all the reasons I miss living in Italy. This time we weren’t tied to train and ferry schedules and were able to take our time to enjoy Como.
Would I return to Lake Como?
Yes— but not in the middle of summer. Between the heat and the wall-to-wall tourists, it really took away from what should’ve been a relaxing, scenic experience. If I ever go back, it’ll be in spring or late fall when it’s cooler, quieter, and you can actually enjoy the place.
There’s still a lot I’d like to see. For instance, Como Town has a funicular (a kind of cable car) that climbs up to the village of Brunate. Apparently, the views up there are incredible, and there’s a hike to the Volta Lighthouse, which honors Alessandro Volta, the inventor of the electric battery and a native of Como.
I’d also return for the villa tours we missed. At the top of my list is Villa del Balbianello in Lenno—famous for its gardens and its appearances in Star Wars: Attack of the Clones and James Bond: Casino Royale. I’d also love to visit Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo, known for its botanical gardens and impressive art collection.
But if I had to choose one Italian Lake to return to? It would actually be Lake Maggiore. Located farther north and bordering Switzerland, it doesn’t feature Como’s dramatic cliffs, but it’s more open, less touristy, and equally picturesque. Plus, I ran my first marathon there—so it’s kind of close to my heart. If you go, don’t miss Villa Taranto. The botanical garden there is said to be one of the best in Europe with its over 20,000 plant species.
I had two completely different experiences and two completely different impressions of Como. So you’ll have to decide for yourself if Lake Como lives up to the hype. Just make sure to plan ahead—when to visit, where to go, and what to do when you get there, because it can totally shape your experience. Hopefully, sharing my experience will help you figure it out.
For more of our adventures, check out these other posts:
Seeing Petra, the Wadi Rum Desert and the Dead Sea
Taking the famous Bernina Express in Switzerland during winter